Many manufacturers sell ‘cider yeast’ but over the last few years more and more home cider makers are switching to ale yeasts instead. The results are said to be a deeper richer taste, although nobody I know has split tested their cider so the apples may be the reason for different taste.
I switched from ‘cider yeast’ to ‘champagne’ yeast for my cider following a trip to Brittany in France where a local maker swore by it.
I pitched in the yeast at the normal time and the fermentation was a little more vigourous than I was used to. The cider was excellent, but because champagne yeast survives longer in higher alcohol concentrations there was a wine like aspect and I suspect a far higher than usual alcohol content.
When trying ale yeast myself I have been very pleased with the result but as I didn’t split test the brew, I don’t know if the yeast was the deciding factor there either.
One brewer I know does use bread yeast but that really is not good and his cider is an acquired taste to say the least.
So, pay your money and take your choice. Whichever yeast you choose (as long as it isn’t bread yeast) I’m sure you will do just fine.
‘Fresh from the tree’ is the obvious, modern, healthy, sensible answer to the question ‘how soon after picking should I pulp and press my apples. It is also, as our ancestors knew, totally wrong.
I have been looking through farming manuals and kitchen management books from the dim and distant past and all of them talk about leaving the apples in a pile for a week or two before crushing.
They don’t give any reason for doing this, but a bit of research revealed the scientific answer.
This process of leaving the apples before crushing allows the cells to start breaking down within the protective casing of the apple skin so when you do eventually press your apples more juice and flavour will be extracted.
Obviously it is doubly important that no rotten apples are in the pile and beware of split skins when piling your heap. Leave it out in the garden for a week before you start crushing, pulping, mashing or stamping and you should see a 15% increase in the quantity of juice you can extract from every kilo of fruit.
Whether this time actually affects the flavour is something I cannot yet answer. I have found no evidence either way and haven’t done a comparison test… yet.
If during the season when the fruits themselves are growing, there are periods of drought, the small apples develop a hard skin. if later there is lots of wet weather the skin can crack open, ruining the apple.
The best solution is to keep your trees weathered during hot weather to ensure even apple growth, right up until harvest time. Bigger apples mean more cider after all.
Ok, so there is not enough crop for even a gallon of cider. Well last year that happened to lots of small scale growers and one or two reported that a late glut of blackberrys meant that rather than eat their few apples, they added them to the berries to make an apple and blackberry wine. This is a british hedgerow classic combination. We all know they taste great together in pies and sure enough they taste amazing together as a wine too.
However you will need a decent wine yeast rather than a cider yeast to produce a good finished drink.
Too late! I didn’t spray the trees this spring and two are showing signs of scab. Not much I can do this year and I suspect my crop will suffer.
Spraying has to be carried out in spring for it to be successful when managing apple scab.